Kira #916
2 Cabin Pullman
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hgamsby |
Nicro Vent Installation |
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I plan on installing a Nicro 3000 4 " vent on my 2 Cabin Pullman. Looking to put it in the deck just aft and starboard of the mast. I will obviously be drilling 4 3/4" hole in the deck in an area that looks clean. Has anyone done this installtion? Tips or advice?
Kira #916 2 Cabin Pullman |
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nelsoncw |
Re: Nicro Vent Installation | #1 | ||
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A friend put his vent in one of the small hatches that is in the main cabin. He said this was an easer installation and easily reversed.
Nelson & Christine Willis "Peter Cooper" Hull #683, Three Cabin Pullman, Marina Del Rey, CA
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take5 |
Re: Nicro Vent Installation | #2 | ||
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I just installed the Nicro SS solar vent in the forward head of my 3 Cabin CL and it was easier than expected. I located it just forward of the Lewmar hatch. Knowing I was drilling the 4.75" hole in the deck I located it about 28" off the port side of the mast. The deck has a break in the non-skid pattern and I used that to center the vent. I drilled a small (1/16") pilot hole through to locate the location exactly in the head. Once done I was able to see I needed to move it over about an 1" and did so before drilling the larger hole.
I used a new and very sharp hole saw in an effort to avoid chips in the deck. I drilled the deck through and then went below and used the hole from below to drill up through the liner. If at all possible I would recommend you do this with a shop vac on and near the drill. The dust both inside and out blows everywhere. I runned clear silicone on the exposed edges and on the flange both on top and below before screwing in place. The entire process took about 30 minutes. I can email you photo's if you like. Michael TAKE FIVE 880 3 Cabin CL MDR, CA |
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azure42 |
re: Nicro Vent Installation | #3 | ||
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I installed these vents on an Islander 30 that we owned years ago. Others are right, it's a fairly straight forward job. The only suggestion I would add is to mix up a small amount of resin and use it to seal the inside raw edges of your deck & coring -- just in case there is any small path for water to find a way around your caulking seal.
Rod Williams
Azure, #343, 2-cabin Alameda/San Francisco Bay, CA. |
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Unregistered(d) |
Re: Nicro Vent Installation | #4 | ||
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Ditto to Rod's comment on sealing the edges.
For those who used the hole saw...was the deck filled or hollow? I installed one on my C30 and the filler in the deck turned any tooth instantly dull. I finally ended up using a sanding drum on drill, which worked well...I was just having to open up an existing hole by 0.5"...they changed the design. I had planned to use my RotoZip with a really mean bit intended for concrete and such....but if a hole saw work well...I'll go that route! I planned to put one in the aft head, as that door is frequently closed. One trick, if having to sand the edge, is to tape a bag to the ceiling. Catches all the dust and keeps it out of the boat. Doesn't work while drilling inside, though. Ken Fischer 2005 C42 #906 "Solaria", 3 Cabin Pullman, Fin Keel, Mast Furling Main, 155% Genoa
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melelana |
Nicro Vent | #5 | ||
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Ken's suggestion of using a bag taped to the overhead is a good one. I installed 2 vents in my last boat and using bags saved a lot of clean up.
Rather than an expensive hole saw blade that fiberglass dulls quickly, I used a scroll saw with a composite blade after taping the deck and overhead to minimize chipping. I cut the hold very slightly undersized and followed up with a sanding drum to clean up the edges. Coated the core with epoxy to eliminate water intrusion and installed the vents. As with any hole in your boat, measure 6 or 7 times before cutting. Whether you use a hole saw or a scroll saw, a pilot hole at the center to allow you to know exactly where the interior hole will end up is critical. Rotozip might work, but hole cutting guide on mine is pretty poorly designed and it's omnidirectional cutting blade is very hard to control free handed. Good Luck, Larry Melelana Catalina 42 #175 1990 3cbn, wk Solomons, MD |
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take5 |
Re: Nicro Vent | #6 | ||
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The deck in total was about an 1"thick. The core is 1/2" balsa with approx. 1/4" of glass on either side. The liner was also about 1/4" thick and the space between them about the same. I used a Milwaukee bit and whole saw and neither seemed to be dulled in the process.
I liked the idea of the whole saw because the fit was tight and left little or no room for water to seep in. With the silicone applied liberally the upper flange was a tight fit. Screwed into place just made it that much better. MJS |
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do335 |
Re: Nicro Vent | #7 | ||
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I would suggest sealing the end grain balsa and any voids inside the hole with epoxy. This will eliminate delamination and other problems if water does get in.
Steve 642-2f TESA
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kenfischer |
Re: Nicro Vent | #8 | ||
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Just installed a 3" NicroVent forward of the hatch in the aft head. Used a hole saw. Deck was 1 5/8 thick. Did not have the drilling issues I had on the 30, which dulled the saw.
This was a very easy job. Not worth blocking the light to put it in a hatch. The 4" does not fit in this location, due to the shape of the ceiling. (3 cabin) 2005 C42 #906 "Solaria", 3 Cabin Pullman, Fin Keel, Mast Furling Main, 155% Genoa
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