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I have previously posted info regarding the problem you outline. Should show up under rudder issues. Anyway...indeed if you have rusty water stains, the seal has broken around the tube/blade. It's simply clear epoxy and the flexing of the blade eventually opens it. I had the problem while in fresh water and would drill a 1/2" hole about 8" up from the bottom of the blade in line with the post and let it drain all winter, refilling the hole in the spring. I eventually dropped the blade, cleaned out the "seal" and re-sealed it with 5200. That held for a few years. Once we moved to saltwater here in FL, the saltwatrer began to severely pit the post below the blade entry point and, once cut apart, we found that the saltwater had corroded the post to a point of being non-reusable in a new cast. I ordered a new rudder. 3 years ago the shipping was $75.00 via common carrier fro CA to FL.

Eventually you may need a new rudder and when you order it make sure you discuss the process thoroughly with Catalina. According to Frank Butler, each rudder in the early 42's was cast to each individual boat! The first one they made for me didn't fit as the blade to post angle was way off. I modified it to fit at the time. At next haulout Catalina took it back and made another one using the one I sent back as a "pattern"...it fits better but not like the original. I would suggest making a simple cardboard pattern of the blade to hull angle and sending it to Catalina before they cast you a new rudder.

The replacement rudder will have a different internal ss grid welded to the post. It's a "ladder" arrangement vs. the big flat piece of steel welded to the bottom section of the post in the rudder you now have. That supposedly makes the blade stiffer and hopefully eliminates the separation at the post to blade entry point. The replacement also has the post filled with high density foam.

Mark Kenyon
Splash Dancer II, hull 94