Yuku free message boards

Peter,

The type 1 drive is adequate for most conditions, certainly for inshore. To get full rudder throw, however, you have to use a very short tiller arm (about 8") or drill the 10" tiller arm to a shorter length. The "ideal" setup uses a type 2 long drive to get plenty of power and full throw.

As the drive determines which core pack you have to buy, I'd recommend you make that decision first. I'm happy with my short type 1, but I'm in the Chesapeake and a 6-8 foot short square wave is the most we see and 25 knots is a very windy day. We tend to worry more about light air sails here. If you are happy with the type 1 you currently have from the standpoint of control in all conditions, there is probably no reason to change. If you want a "bulletproof" drive, this might be the time to change up to the type 2 long.

I'm running the 6001 controller, the G series core pack and a type 1 drive with a short tiller. Happy with how it works in my conditions.

When I installed the AP, I set up the drive at the 10" radius and found the that limited rudder angle to about 30 degrees L/R instead of the 45 degrees L/R available from physical stop to physical stop. I talked with Edson and found you can drill the tiller arm at a shorter radius (there are cast in "bosses" along the arm). I experimented with the radius required to retain full throw and went with 8 inches. The caution is that you would reduce the amount of torque available due to the shorter lever arm. I have not had any problems with stalling the drive with the standard shoal draft rudder, but I suspect my drive works fairly hard in rough weather. Keep in mind that Melelana is an early Mk I and I sail "light ship" not loaded down with genset, dinghy davits, 1000 amp hours of batteries or even a windlass (yes, they were optional in the early days and my 55 YO back is telling me one might be a good investment). I keep the water tanks empty except for the centerline tank (early boats did not have under sole tanks) and the dinghy stays in the dockbox unless I'm going out for a weekend or longer. Newer boats are carrying more weight and loading out for distance cruising adds even more weight and that drives a requirement for a more powerful pilot.

With a type 2 long drive, you retain the 10 inch arm and increase the drive power (and potential current draw). That's what I would do if I were headed offshore to build in some reserve power. It's a personal choice but I won't give up rudder throw so my choice was really a matter of using the reduced arm length or the long throw type 2 drive at a 50% cost premium for the entire system as the type 2 drive requires the matching core pack. Not sure what's on the market today as my 5 YO system is working fine.