Paul Mellen
#480 MK II, Saltwater Taffy
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pmellen |
SSB Radio Installation |
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I am interest in any details for SSB radio installation on a 2-cabin model. How did you install the ground plane and how many feet of copper grounding foil was
used? Where did you mount the antenna tuner and how did you run the antenna wire to the radio? Did you do anything special to your backstay antenna? As for the
radio itself, I am considering a ICOM M802 with the remote control head which would be mounted at the nav station. If you have a similar model radio where did
you mount the radio body? Where did you mount a modem for e-mail reception? Any shortcuts and problems to be concerned with when under taking this project
would be greatly appreciated.
Paul Mellen #480 MK II, Saltwater Taffy |
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sashay567 |
SSB Install | #1 | ||
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Paul, I've installed SSBs on 2 C-42s and "perfected" the install on a 3rd. I've also installed SSBs on a Beneteau 47 and a Jeaneau 46. On my boat, a Mk II, I have an Icom M710RT. The SSB "black box" is mounted in the compartment below the starboard settee in the saloon. On Destiny (a Mk I) the black box is mounted in a custom cabinet they had built for their E120. Aboard Irish Lady (a Mk II) the SSB black box is mounted on a shelf in the starboard pullman stateroom hanging locker. As far as modems go, there is no need to see the front panel of the modem during operation. The modems in the above 3 boats is strapped to the SSB black box using velcro strapping. Grounding was accomplished in my boat and Irish Lady by running copper strap from the antenna tuner to the propeller shaft strut. Additional copper strap was used to connect the antenna tuner to the stern pushpit AKA stern railing (and lifelines). The connection to the pushpit and lifelines forms a very effective ground counterpoise. Aboard Destiny, the generator thru-hull was used for the water connection, and again, a connection to the pushpit was made. Installations aboard the french boats is similar. In all the boats, the tuner was installed in the aft starboard lazerrette as close to the backstay as possible. Aboard all 3 boats, insulators were installed in the backstay with the lower insulator being about 6.5 feet above the cockpit sole. The upper insulator position is not critical. I've included a diagram of Destiny's backstay. The antenna lead from the tuner was led to the backstay above the lower insulator using homemade standoffs. How do these installs work? I sailed from SF to Hawaii aboard Irish Lady in the '06 Pacific Cup. We had no trouble connecting to the ham winlink system all the way across. I just finished sailing the Baja Ha Ha (San Diego to Cabo San Lucas, MX) aboard Destiny, and we also had no issues being heard by the rally net control and Sailmail hookups were near instantaneous. Aboard my boat, I was able to hear and talk to competitors in the 2006 single-handed transpac. I also worked a ham station in Norway about a week ago. The 2 french boats were also in the Ha Ha and had good signals and were able to use Sailmail with no issues. I know these installations fly in the face of common "knowledge" regarding SSB grounds but results is what counts. Using the lifelines as a radio
frequency counterpoise is the secret.
Rodney Kidd, C-42 #567 Sashay, 2 Cabin Fin, Marina Village, Alameda, CA
Last Edited By: sashay567 11/15/07 13:26:32.
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lakandjc |
#2 | |||
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Paul:
FWIW, I second Rodney's comments about copper grounding. On White Star, #450, 2 cabin I installed a ICOM 710. We used copper between the tuner, which was under the swimstep, and the strut. This gave us a strong signal, so good that I was frequently asked to be net control for the HF nets in Mexico as I could usually be heard and could also hear weak stations. The lead from the tuner to the backstay was thru the hull about a foot up from the floor of the swimstep directly to the backstay and I did not use any standoffs. This apparently had no negative effect on signal strength. Be sure that the 802 you buy has all the factory changes that eliminate the "clipping" problems earlier 802's had. These problems were serious and hopefully the new modifications have eliminated them. One final caution: when installing insulators, make sure the length of the new backstay will allow full adjustment of the backstay length to allow for tuning the rig. If it is too long by even a little, you can find yourself with no room to take up slack after the stay stretches a little. And if you go offshore even a little, make sure you have simple instructions on a "panic sheet" so crew who aren't familiar with the radio and what it does can find an emergency channel or two and get help if you are not available to run the radio. Good luck with the install... |
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svzephyr44 |
#3 | |||
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We ran the ground strap from both the antenna tuner (an SEA) and the rig (a Kenwood TS-480HX) to the stern most keel bolt. A hose clamp holds the strap to the
bolt. It works fine, we get excellent signal reports. The SEA is in the starboard stern lazarette on the shelf, the radio is on the back wall of the aft cabin
(we have a two cabin model.) I wanted the radio where it was very easy to get to in the event of an emergency or a wiring problem. This also makes access to
the RS-232 connector on the radio simple for when I want to connect the computer to upload and download frequency plans. Most of the time the computer is
connected to the modem but not the radio. The transceiver could be covered with a nice teak cover but I have not gotten that far. The TS-480 is also a
"remote head" radio so the actual control panel is mounted at the chart table. I chose to mount the head on a braket rather than mounting it
permanently into the chart table. Given the setup (the only wire to the remote head is a RJ-45 like a home telephone wire) it is pretty easy to unplug the
control panel and re-plug it in in the cockpit on warm sunny days. Its a nice benefit.
With respect to the modem, we have ours mounted at the chart table. Since the modem needs a serial connection to a computer to do airmail (or sailmail) and we-fax etc. it was easier to run the connector cable from the radio to the modem then it would have been to run a serial cable from the location of the transmitter to the modem. But as pointed out above, either will work. I also happen to like the ability to look at the status lights on the modem. You said "I am considering and Icom M802." I did, and decided on the Kenwood instead. I would be happy to share why if you are interested. One final note. We ran power to the transceiver directly from the house battery bank for two reasons. First, to remove to the greatest extent possible any induced noise from any other electronics. Second, because at 200 Watts the rig draws 40+ amps. At some point (maybe this spring when it gets warmer) I will most likely rewire the feed to come off the battery A/B switch system for more failsafe options. I would also like to get it behind the ammeter shunt so that the current usage is reflected in the ammeter. However, it is unlikley that I will actually rig it thur the DC power distribution panel. And yes, it is FUSED! Roger Reboot #493
Roger
REBOOT USA 60493
Last Edited By: svzephyr44 11/16/07 15:56:52.
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pmellen |
#4 | |||
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Thanks to all for such good information. The info on the ground plane as well as the other aspects involved with the radio installation are sure to save me
a great amount of aggravation and time. This is my Winter project and I'll let you know how it comes out. One final question, is there any great difference
in the working capabilities and characteristic between the ICOM M802 and the ICOM M700 Pro other than the 802 has the separate control head? Again, many thanks
for taking the time to help me with this project. I owe you all.
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pmellen |
#5 | |||
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Roger, a second follow-up. you mentioned that you decided on the Kenwood instead of the ICOM M802. I am interested in your reasons as my practical experience
is limited to just a couple of types of radios. I want to get this right the first time, if at all possible.
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svzephyr44 |
#6 | |||
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The quick reply if you want to go no further:
Icom IC-M802 about $1,799.99 (150 watts - with DSC) Kenwood TS-480SAT about $ 964.99 (100 watts - no DSC) Kenwood TS-480HX about $1069.99 (200 watts - no DSC) You essentially need two parts to make this work - a transceiver and an antenna tuner. Although antenna tuners can be "matched" with transceivers so you can purchase off the shelf interconnection cables an antenna tuner is, for the most part, an antenna tuner. The third (optional) piece is a modem. In the airmail/sailmail/marine world there appears to be only one that has all the shore station support built around it, the SCS modem. In my case it was the PTC-IIex from Farallon for $888. Now, before I leave antenna tuners and get into the transceiver choice let me point out a couple of things: 1. There are two kinds of antenna tuners: balanced feeds and unbalanced feeds. Some tuners do both, but that capability is not common. Most built in antenna tuners (more on that later) are designed to work with a unbalanced antenna feed (dipole, beam, yaggi, etc.) You need an antenna tuner for a long wire - your backstay. Please seem yorkrose and my comments below about various ways to feed your backstay. I have never done as yorkrose suggests not because I disagree but because I have never had the occasion - my SEA tuner on the boat is a "Marine" tuner with a stud for the backstay and a second stud for the ground. It is fed by a normal coax connection from the transceiver. The "screwdriver" antenna on my Avalance takes the direct coax from the TS-480HX. 2. Antenna tuners have a maximum rated power - 100 Watts is common for Ham Radio, 150 Watts is common for Marine (since the Marine radio rule is 150 Watts - Ham is 1000 but few people run that much power.) Since an antenna tuner is a bunch of capacitors and inductors and relays running too much power risks arcing the relays. But usually when you are tuning you are doing so at very low power (e.g. 5 watts) so this is less of a problem. 3. Peak power is very different than average power. If you are talking you are most likely not putting out all 150 Watts all the time. On the other hand if you are doing Morse code or digital modes (e.g. airmail) you will be keying so that peak power and average power will be much closer to each other. So you are "pushing the envelope" so to speak harder if you are running say 200 watts thru a 150 watt tuner doing airmail then you are if you are talking. 4. Certainly if I were to end up selecting the M802 I would purchase the matching AT-140 antenna tuner. If not you would have to make a decision as to the antenna tuner you wanted to purchase. Preamble two: There are two types of transceivers - marine and Ham. Some transceivers are accepted by the FCC to do both. The difference is that a marine transceiver can only transmit on marine frequencies and a Ham transceiver can only transmit on Ham frequencies. They can both receive on all frequencies. Of course in this computer age they can really transmit on all the frequencies - they are just programmed to prevent transmission outside of the "approved" frequencies. A very quick Google will take you to web pages that explain how to "unlock" the radio so that it will transmit on all frequencies. Of course, you are most likely asking - is the radio actually designed to operate in this way? The answer is yes. For certain categories of people, for example military affiliate radio system (MARS) operators, the manufacturer will unlock the radio. Most people who do long distance cruising have radios on board that can operate either in the Ham or Marine bands. This is also, by the way, true of the US Coast Guard. I have more than once heard the USCG "key up" on 14.300 mhz (the 20 meter ham band) to take over communication to a vessel in distress. So, just having the Ham bands will not prevent the Coast Guard from being able to get directly in touch with you in the event of an emergency. Preamble three: Now Ham operators talk to Hams and Marine radio people talk to other marine radio people. You will find that with Satphone technology almost no marine radio people talk to each other on the marine radio channels. In fact, many sailors have Ham licenses and talk as "maritime mobiles" or Mickey Mouses. You can listen to this kind of communication at http://www.mmsn.org That is the home page of the Maritime Mobile Service Network - a group of Hams that provide East Coast ham radio services to Atlantic and Carabean ham sailors. When they go off the air the Pacific Seafarers net picks up for the Pacific. This suggests that you are more likely to find people to talk to on the Ham bands. So you will need to get at least a general class Ham license. Calamity, Calamity! Don't I have to learn Morse code? The good news is no - there is no longer a Morse code requirement for a Ham license. You do have to pass a written exam (actually a couple) but the entire pool of questions and answers is online with multiple practice tests, etc. Devote 1 hour per day for a month and it will be done with flying colors. Preamble four: Is DSC important? A major difference between the Icom M802A and the Kenwood radios is that the Icom supports Digital Selective Calling. I considered this absolutely unimportant. My VHF Marine radio has DSC, and anyone that I would expect to use DSC to call me is going to be within VHF radio range. At this point we can look at the two radios side by side. Perhaps the easiest way is to consider that they are designed for two different audiences. A marine radio should be mostly easy to use, a few twists of the knobs and you are communicating. Hence the Icom is channelized - pick the right marine channel by twisting the knob. The Ham radio community is very different - the holy grail if you will is to have made radio contact with every possible nation (or island, or lighthouse, or museum, or whatever.) Ham radios are designed to pull the rare contact out of the dirt. They have lots and lots of features - lots and lots of settings, etc. They also have a bigger (although still small) market to distribute the fixed development costs. As a result the Ham radio is more likely to perform well in fringe conditions (if you know how to use it) than a marine radio. Both radios have computer connections - but I would suggest the Kenwood does more (e.g. you can remotely run the Kenwood over the internet from your home presuming you have the radio connected to a computer on the boat and the computer is connected to the internet. The Kenwood will run certain audio modes (PSK for example) without any modem at all. And it has built in pre-amps and attenuators for the antenna(s.) All in all, I did not "get" what made the Icom worth an additional $800. If anything my sense was that it should be cheaper, not more expensive. BTW - there are several reviews of the Kenwood TS-480HX - you can find them with Google. Here is a couple to start: http://cruisenews.net/cgi-bin/mmham/webbbs_config.pl/noframes/read/653 http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/3325 A couple of final observations: 1. There are Ford guys and Chevy guys (maybe still!) In the Ham market there is Icom, Kenwood, and Yaesu. They all make good products. I own Icoms and Kenwoods, my personal belief is that Kenwood delivers more bang for the buck. So know that I am kind of an Kenwood guy. 2. I have stayed at the low end - there are semi-commercial and commercial radios that cost a lot more. I did not feel I needed to spend more than I did. 3. I purchased the "HX" rather than the "SAT" because I did not need the internal antenna tuner. (The internal tuner is for a "balanced feed", it would not work on a backstay.) My radio lives on Reboot in the summer with an SEA antenna tuner and in my Avalanche in the winter with a "screwdriver" antenna. Neither configuration would have made use of the internal "SAT" antenna tuner so I spent a few bucks more and got double the power output. But in fact most of the time I keep it dialed back to 100 Watts. From Lake Michigan I get "armchair copy" reports from the West Coast, Arizona, the Caribbean, Texas, and Florida. I have worked Japan and Germany from both the car and the boat at 100 watts or less. Sometimes I run 10 watts for fun. In the middle of the lake the manmade background noise declines to almost nothing and all that water around the boat is the best counterpoise (i.e. ground plane) one could ask for. So the "SAT" would have been fine and saved me a few bucks. 4. Because I have been in Ham radio for a lot of years and like it as a hobby I purchased some of the options
(e.g. the special filters, voice unit, and TCXO) None of these are really necessary.
5. I would look at the Icom 7000 (a few more bucks than the Kenwood) rather than the M802 if I had to own an
Icom. It may actually be a better radio, but I have not owned or used one.
Roger
REBOOT USA 60493
Last Edited By: svzephyr44 11/25/07 13:03:13.
Edited 9 times.
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yorkrose |
#7 | |||
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Roger,
Nice discussion, but I have two quibbles. * Virtually any built-in antenna tuner will be unbalanced. I am not aware of a single transceiver made by anyone that has a built-in balanced tuner. There are very few external balanced tuners available. Depending on the range of adjustment in the TS-480SAT and the exact length of the antenna, the tuner should work as well as an external tuner. * This radio does not appear to be certified or type-accepted for Part 80 use. Therefore it would not be legal to transmit on the marine bands if under US jurisdiction. This requirement has nothing to do with the license of the operator. The radio would not be legal for transmission even for licensed ham operators outside of the ham bands. For unlicensed operators it would not be legal for transmission on any frequency I realize this rule is widely ignored, and a lot of ham radios are used on the marine bands on the high seas. Regards, Gene Fuller, W4SZ Yorkshire Rose, C42 #870 |
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svzephyr44 |
#8 | |||
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Gene:
1. I was under the impression that the built in antenna tuner on an SAT could not feed a long wire. If that is incorrect I am curious how I would wire it? Center to long wire, shield to counterpoise? 2. You are correct, it is not type accepted. I have not found any occasion to use the Marine bands. Perhaps some races require it, I don't know. In an emergency I know I can use any mode and any band and any transmitter so it has not be a major concern. Once I understand the answer to "1" above I will edit my post to make it correct. Thanks in advance for the info. Roger Reboot #493 W2ZDB
Roger
REBOOT USA 60493 |
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yorkrose |
#9 | |||
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Roger,
1. I would wire it exactly as you suggest. As you know, there is no such thing as a "one-sided" antenna. A conventional dipole puts both parts in the air. A long wire is only half of the complete antenna system; the other half is the counterpoise. On a boat this counterpoise is generally some direct or capacitive connection to the water. One creative solution noted above is the use of lifelines as a counterpoise. I would not do that for safety reasons, since one could get a bite from the lifeline, but it should be effective as far as the radio is concerned. Even a handheld radio with a rubber ducky antenna uses a two-part antenna; the radio case and the operator's body act as the counterpoise. 2. I did not intend to suggest that you are doing anything illegal. Many people, especially non-hams, would want the capability to transmit on the marine bands. I was merely pointing out that only a type-accepted marine radio can be used for such transmissions. Regards, Gene Fuller Yorkshire Rose, C42 #870 |
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pmellen |
#10 | |||
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Roger, many thanks for an excellent tutorial. I'll probably stick with a marine SSB but I do intend to check out the real differences, as far as
capabilities and ease of use between an Icom M802 and M700 Pro. The M802 will be easier to install at the Nav station and have a more professional built in
look as opposed to the more intrusive M700. The installation suggestions for the ground plane and radio installation will make it a much easier project. Thanks
to all who have commented.
Paul Mellen #480 Saltwater Taffy |
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