Main Sheet Traveler Upgrade

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yorkrose		#11	[url]	[-]
Posts: 265 05/10/08 06:20:35	Steve, It may be worth a quick look to see if the long bolts will remove more easily than described by Addison. It would take only a couple of minutes to try. I don't need to upgrade the traveler, but I did recently need to remove and rebed the long bolts to stop a small leak. If you can turn the screw heads, then the bolts are not seized in the traveler track. I simply drove the bolts out with a small punch from inside the boat. (The punch was smaller than the bolt diameter to avoid damaging the threads.) There is a bunch of sealing gunk, but the bolts don't really seize in the fiberglass. If you cannot turn the screws after the nuts are removed, then you would probably need the brute force lever method to remove them. Regards, Gene Fuller Yorkshire Rose, C42 #870
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azure42		#12	[url]	[-]
Posts: 321 05/10/08 17:38:47	Steve, I would suggest that you are on the right "track" with your latest post (pun intended). I used this method for installing my recently upgraded traveler and mainsheet. The new end pieces and turning blocks for the traveler will cover and hide the fairly soft aluminum plates you will be cutting off. I cut mine right to the track edge so not much is visible anyway. It will appear that you can just remove the old sheaves from the plates and slide on the new car -- you can't -- I learned this lesson while showering the cabin top with ball bearings (fortunately it was covered with several towels as a catcher system). The new traveler car has an angle along the bottom that will hit the old plates as you try to slide it onto the track. You will need to drill and tap two holes down into the track to secure the new end pieces, but this metal is soft and it is an easy step. I ruined my end cap pieces taking them off, but Guido at Garhauer is making me a set of polished stainless ones that should look better than the old bronzed aluminum pieces. The job was pretty straight-forward, but still had some tense moments....I literally cringed as I read what Addison went through changing his, and I have a lot of respect for his ingenuity. Rod Williams Azure' #343, 2-cabin fin Alameda/San Francisco Bay, CA.
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steve2937	Main Sheet Traveler Upgrade	#13	[url]	[-]
Posts: 8 05/11/08 19:04:43	Addison, I installed the new traveler on Saturday and it went well. I cut the old shieves off, slid on the new traveler, slid on the new shieves, and relocated the stoppers. The cutting and drilling took some time, but went reasonably well. The new traveler has three stainless ring attachments. I am only using the center one. I assume there is also an upgrade for the main sheet which uses all three rings. Have you installed this? Steve Ball
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ajchan		#14	[url]	[-]
Posts: 155 05/15/08 09:38:21	Hi Steve Yes I have installed the new 8:1 mainsheet blocks as well. It makes a huge difference in the ease of mainsheet control. I highly recommend it....besides it looks cool. Addison Threepenny Opera 1999 C-42 MK II, 2CP Wing #640 http://the-voyages-of-threepenny-opera.blogspot.com/
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garrywillis		#15	[url]	[-]
Posts: 278 05/15/08 12:39:05 Moderator	Steve, Here's a snap of what it will look like using all three shackles as Addison recommends and I concur. Many folks have made this upgrade and think it is worthwhile. Garry "Breezn" #502 2-Cabin Last Edited By: garrywillis 05/15/08 12:43:26. Edited 1 time.
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tomca		#16	[url]	[-]
Posts: 79 05/15/08 13:03:18	I have yet to upgrade my mainsheet to the new system, currently I am happy with the mainsheet purchase and use. What I am not happy with is the traveller purchase. I find it very difficult to adjust the traveller whenever there is a decent breeze. I am wondering if there is an upgrade for the traveller itself, maybe additional blocks for added purchase. Tom Maxwell #766 2-cabin Pullman Dana Point, CA
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garrywillis		#17	[url]	[-]
Posts: 278 05/15/08 13:09:11 Moderator	Tom, What is the purchase on yours? As you can see, mine is a 5 to 1 and it works well in heavier air. One thing that I have found that makes it easier to work the traveler is new and thinner line so they go around the sheaves easier plus easing off the mainsheet a bit just before adjusting the traveler. Garry "Breezn" #502 2-Cabin
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do335		#18	[url]	[-]
Posts: 253 05/15/08 21:20:40	The two bolts that go thru the deck can be extremely difficult to remove, don't underestimate them until you have tried. So people find them easy, I haven't. I have tried pounding from below, impact wrench, electrical conductive heating and brute force and so far no luck. I think my next option is to drill off the heads from above and then pound the bolts down thru the deck. I upgraded my traveler car with the same Garhauer car as pictured above and found it to be much easier to move traveler even in strong winds. If you aren't satisfied with how hard it is to move the car, try the upgrade. Steve 642-2f TESA
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ajchan		#19	[url]	[-]
Posts: 155 05/16/08 08:15:58	Steve They definitely don't build them like they used to. A pry bar, the longer the better, will break it loose. The factory used a substance that looks strangely like 5200, so it takes applied brute force to get it loose. I tried the hammering from below route and all I succeeded in doing was messing up the first couple of threads, which had to be re-cut. Since our boats were likely on the assembly line at around the same time, I'll bet yours is sealed with the same stuff. Good Luck Addison Threepenny Opera 1999 C-42 MK II, 2CP Wing #640 http://the-voyages-of-threepenny-opera.blogspot.com/
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tomca		#20	[url]	[-]
Posts: 79 05/19/08 05:18:55	Ours is the 5:1 traveler also, the only difference I can tell between the upgrade and mine is the addition of extra shackles for addition blocks. I guess I will have to try new line and see if that helps the situation. Tom Maxwell #766 2-cabin Pullman Dana Point, CA
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