I've got 100 ft. of chain and 200 ft. of soft-braided line on my primary anchor. I often anchor in water that is deep enough so that I've used up the
chain part of the rode and I'm attaching the braided line to the cleat in the anchor locker of my 1992 2-cabin. This means that the rode is passing over
the bow roller. What is an easy way of attaching an anchor snubber line to the braided line so that I can use the deck cleats to secure the rode, avoiding the
bow roller? I know I can use an anchor hook on the chain part of the road, but how about on the braided line part of the rode?
0 Kudo
Anchor Snubber
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 afterglow |
Anchor Snubber |
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Posts: 54 01/29/08 11:11:21 |
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yorkrose |
#1 | |||
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Posts: 265 01/29/08 12:29:06 |
I would not bother with any kind of snubber. Simply leave the rode in place in the roller and pull a bight back from just below the roller to fasten on a
cleat. You can use a boat hook as necessary to help grab the rode. Of course the anchor rode needs to be slack when you do this, but that should usually not be
a problem. Use a standard cleat hitch, and then leave as much slack from the roller as necessary. When you are ready to go, simply uncleat the rode and it will
resume its normal position coming off the roller.
If you are anchoring in survival conditions you might need to be more careful about chafe. However, for a typical overnight anchorage there is not much to worry about. I have used that approach many times, without any problems. The anchor rollers on these boats are a bit too light weight. They are easily bent with a sideways pull. It is always a good idea to move the strain elsewhere. Regards, Gene Fuller Yorkshire Rose, C42 #870 |
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CaptNorm42 |
I personally like a camel hitch for that purpose | #2 | ||
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Posts: 619 01/29/08 12:48:08 Moderator |
I bring the anchor rode in about 8', will let it out soon. I get 2 @ 1/2" nylon lines roughly 15' each, temporarily cleat them on the 2 forward
deck cleats. Run the bitter end of each thru the anchor roller bale (starting forward of the bale), run the lines toward the stern. I stagger 2 @ camel hitches
on the tight anchor line (just forward of the windlass). The beauty of these hitches is they can move in direction (forward) but will not move in the other
direction. Be sure you get the correct orientation on the hitches--the 3 parallel loops go aft of the 2 loops in the hitch. Be sure to practice on some
lines--the hitch will slide in only 1 direction--in this case forward--but will lock in place in the loaded direction. Slowly let out the rode from the
windlass. The 2 hitches will go thru the bale and if you tied the 2 temporary cleats correctly, they will take the load. More than likely, you will need to
adjust the length of your 2 lines on the cleats. I then take just a little load with the windlass.
http://tinyurl.com/3dj82u If this link fails, google "camel hitch"
~~~~_/)~~~~
Norm Perron, Hull #600/2 cabin, Aphrodisiac, Marina del Rey, CA
Last Edited By: CaptNorm42 01/29/08 12:52:24.
Edited 1 time.
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afterglow |
Shock Loads on Roller | #3 | ||
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Posts: 54 01/30/08 10:27:33 |
Norm & Gene - thanks for the ideas. My reason for avoiding the bow roller is not because I'm particularly worried about chafe, but more because
I'm worried about the strength of the bow roller. The first year I had my boat, I made the mistake of anchoring in a small bay where the water depths and
the swinging room were such that I had to anchor with the chain part of the rode passing over the roller. Winds were maybe 25 kts. and gusty, no seas. About
an hour after I anchored, I heard a strange noise and decided to go check the anchor. The bolt holding the rubber roller on the bow roller had broken and the
anchor chain was jammed between the supports for the rubber roller and what was left of the rubber roller. A few more minutes and the chain would be rubbing
on the stainless steel of the roller support.
I now anchor in deeper water, assuming that having some of the braided anchor line deployed will help absorb some shock loads that the chain alone cannot absorb. But, I'd rather avoid the strains on the bow roller all together. I'll try the camel hitch approach. Thanks. |
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Frisky Business 2546 |
Anchor Snubber | #4 | ||
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Posts: 2 02/02/08 06:12:54 |
The link below has a good picture of a single line snubber. I use a 2 line snubber, pictured below it so I can tie the lines to both bow cleats P & S. No
need to use such an expensive hook. Any chain hook that is sized properly for your chain will do. Make sure that there is enough slack in the chain behind the
snubber so the hook doesn't fall off and make sure that the anchor chain is cleated in case it does.
http://www.bestmarineimports.com/Snubbers.html
Last Edited By: CaptNorm42 02/04/08 18:00:47.
Edited 1 time.
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Dave Bolding |
Anchor Snubber | #5 | ||
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Posts: 46 03/08/08 16:24:42 |
I was unable to respond earlier on this subject and there has been some good points made. I use the 2 line snubber with chafe protection. While most of the
time a single line system is easier and quicker. However in 20+ knots of wind our boats sail at anchor quite abit. This causes the single line snubber to lay
accross the bow until the boat sails back the other way. By using the two line snubber the load is switched from one side to the other side. West Marine
carries a plate made from stainless with a slot that the chain slides into. The plate also has two holes to attach shackles for the snubber line. I have seen
some skippers splice an eye in the snubber line to slip over the cleats, the Pardee's do not recommend doing that. If you have to leave an anchorage in
an emergency and your windlass is in operative the snubber would have to be cut.
Dave Bolding, #462/2 cabin, Main Squeeze, Ventura CA
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yorkrose |
#6 | |||
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Posts: 265 03/08/08 18:17:45 |
Dave,
You may have overlooked the detail in the original question. There is little argument that a snubber is very important for a chain rode. I am sure most people have one sort of gadget or another to hook a fiber line to the chain. The question was adding a snubber to a soft braided rode. My suggestion was to simply take the force off the anchor roller by cleating the rode directly to a mooring cleat. Forget about an extra snubber in that case. It does absolutely nothing to increase the "snubness", and it is just an unnecessary complication. Obviously this is not a good solution for long term or for storms. However, for a simple overnight in moderate conditons it works fine. If this procedure is done more than once, it is highly likely that a different position on the rode would be cleated each time. Long-term chafe would not be an issue. The Pardees have a huge amount of experience, but it should always be remembered that their adventures were done in boats without motors. It would be more appropriate to revise their caution to include: 1) leaving an anchorage in an emergency, 2) the windlass is inoperative, and 3) the boat engine is inoperative. With those odds I will take my chances with eye splices in the ends of the snubber lines. Regards, Gene Fuller Yorkshire Rose, C42 #870 |
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symandalay |
#7 | |||
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Posts: 130 03/14/08 03:58:21 |
My anchor roller has withstood all kinds of 40 + knot squalls and months of anchoring out for nearly ten years. I think you underestimate its strength (at
least on my 1997 boat). Perhaps you had a bad bolt.
I use all chain and run the snubber over the roller along with the chain - the snubber has a length of 1.5" fire hose over it to protect it. WRT snubbing line, you can just tie the snubber to the line with a rolling hitch and tighten it up. That's what a lot of catamaran owners do to make a bridle. Colin |
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