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Malcolm Smith	Rudder again		Lead	[-]
Posts: 6 07/30/07 07:22:28	Tags : None Catalina 42 1989 hull No 113 I have just returned from a trip to the UK from The Netherlands and found the ruder would stick if there was a following sea. As you turned the wheel there was a "clunk" and the wheel would then turn easily. Does any member have this problem? The rudder has a slight play but as there is no bearing to change, it means injecting epoxy into the rudder tube after applying a thin film of silicon to the rudder stock. I tend to run a little scared of this procedure as I can see the rudder being epoxied to the tube. Has any member undertaken this procedure? if so what results did you experience and what type of epoxy did you use?
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tinolanza		#1	[url]	[-]
Posts: 227 07/30/07 19:15:54	The "clunk" sounds like you may have a loose bearing. We had a loose lower bearing that created some play. I would inspect both the upper and lower bearing to make sure they are snug. You will need to dive to check the lower bearing if the boat is in the water. Tino Lanza, Dancing Dolphin (#739/3 cabin pullman, Westlake Village, CA)
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oscar		#2	[url]	[-]
Posts: 477 07/31/07 00:07:23	There is no lower bearing in the Mark I. There was a bushing at the time of manufacture, which wears over time. Clunks are often play between the stock and the tube. I did the epoxy injection procedure. There was no glueing the two together because I 1: Dropped the rudder three or so inches and greased the stock beforehand (I believe I used Vaseline). 2: After a half hour moved the rudder back and forth. But, binding is a different story. I would very, very carefully examine the linkage, including inside the pedestal, and all other parts and pieces. Have two helpers, one to turn the wheel, one to provide resistance to the rudder itself. I used West System, and added some filler to thicken it up. Lady Kay, C42#76, 1989, WK 3C. Chesapeake/Fort Lauderdale.
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Malcolm Smith		#3	[url]	[-]
Posts: 6 07/31/07 03:12:54	Oscar. As you stated there is no lower bearing and this rudder was new three years ago, I have checked all the linkage both within the pedestal, and the quaderants on the rudder shaft. There is a slight out of alignment upper the upper bronze bearing at times only one bearing touches, I will realign this with shims. This then will only leave the slight play between the rudder shaft and outer tube but as stated this is very slight. Oscar, from you comments I assume you only injected expoxy into the low few inches of the tube? I was intending to inject epoxy thougout the whole length of the tube so providing a snug fit and support all along the tube. has anyone do this? Thanks for the info so far.
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oscar		#4	[url]	[-]
Posts: 477 07/31/07 09:27:07	Indeed, I only did the lower few inches. Has lasted for 4000 miles so far...... My upper "bearing", the two little roller wheels are also slightly out of alignment. It happened during the rudder replacement. Unless you own the mother of all drill presses, it is nigh impossible to get the hole for the pin perfectly straight. It doesn't bother operation though, and I can't see it as being the source of binding.... Lady Kay, C42#76, 1989, WK 3C. Chesapeake/Fort Lauderdale.
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kclm9803		#5	[url]	[-]
Posts: 33 07/31/07 19:38:52	I did the epoxy fix on Amalfi #497 one of the last barn door MK2s.(without bearing) And yes the rudder stuck, boy was I scared. Threw my shoulder into it an bang it let go, whew what a relief. So make sure you have a good film as the epoxy heats up. I have since obtained a new rudder and am dreading stuffing that bad boy in that snug rudder tube. Has any one retro fitted a rudder bearing into the old school tube? KC
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Malcolm Smith		#6	[url]	[-]
Posts: 6 08/02/07 07:13:54	KC. I had a new rudder fitted approx three years ago, however, at that time the rudder tube had not been epoxied so there was not problem with getting the rudder stock to fit the tube. Provided the new rudder stock is the same diameter as the old one it should fit. I read you had the rudder stick during the epoxy process, my great fear, I have to say I see this epoxy method as a little Heath Robinson (reverse Enginering) I would like to see Catalina make a bearing for the lower end of the tube, then by plugging the tube and using a tank cutter (English - I do not know the name in American) you could recess the tube to accept the bearing, then relacing the rudder and using it as a guide to alingnment, the bearing could be epoxy in place. Mal.
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ocean94526	rudder starting to break?	#7	[url]	[-]
Posts: 1 06/05/08 10:23:48	make sure that the binding you are feeling is not your rudder post starting to crack. We had this happen on our boat and those were the symptoms. Rudder started to bind, just before it was gone forever.
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symandalay		#8	[url]	[-]
Posts: 147 06/06/08 02:14:21	On my boat, there is a teflon ring that sits on top of the rudder that keeps the rudder from contacting the bottom of the hull. In other words it stops the rudder from riding up about 1/4 inch. It is possible that your ring is missing and the rudder is contacting the hull at times. It is also possible that your rudder shaft is bent aft a bit allowing the upper tip of the rudder to drag on the hull under some conditions. There is not a lot of clearance between the rudder and the hull. There is nothing other than the teflon ring to keep the rudder from being lifted/floating up against the hull. There can be a tremendous amount of force on the rudder at times which can make it very difficult to turn. When we are overpowered in strong puffs with too much sail up, the weather helm can be enough that we just can't move the rudder until we dump the traveler or wait for the puff to subside. That is normal. Colin Mandalay Guide to Cruising here http://symandalay.googlepages.com/home
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