Also, any hints on fixing my ST60 temp/speed unit? I have no speed reported and the water temp is at 104 deg F!. I removed the thru hull and cleaned it but that made no difference.
Thanks .. Joe hull#872 3 cabin centerline
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Joe |
Adding Raymarine Seatalk connection |
Lead | ||
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Where can I tap into my seatalk bus to add a Raymarine remote control unit? It appears all my ST60 units are contained within the binnacle pod and all Seatalk
ports are already used . Did Catalina leave a port open so I can add extra units?
Also, any hints on fixing my ST60 temp/speed unit? I have no speed reported and the water temp is at 104 deg F!. I removed the thru hull and cleaned it but that made no difference. Thanks .. Joe hull#872 3 cabin centerline |
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melelana |
#1 | |||
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Joe,
If you have a raymarine autopilot, I think you'll find an open seatalk output port on the AP computer.
Larry
Melelana Catalina 42 #175 1990 3cbn, wk Solomons, MD |
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azure42 |
#2 | |||
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Joe,
I had exactly the same problems -- including the 104 temp. reading -- and I have some bad news/good news/bad news/good news for you. 1. Your sending unit is likely shot. To learn that mine was toast, I removed the display head and shipped it to Raymarine. They bench-tested it and advised me that it was fine and the trouble was in the sending unit. 2. I found a replacement in the Oakland, CA. West Marine store's bargain basement for a very cheap price. 3. West Marine closed the bargain store as the inventory had gotten so big everyone was only shopping there and not in the main store. The manager told me that they packed up everything and shipped it all to storage in Florida. 4. Once you get a replacement unit, you can splice it right onto the existing wiring and it will work. I received several opinions about whether this was possible and most thought the entire wire run from the sending unit to the head had to be replaced. I finally got a Raymarine tech to tell me a splice should work just fine as long as the connections were soldered and heat shrink-wrapped. I installed mine over a year ago and it's worked fine ever since -- even the temperature gauge is correct. One caveat is make sure you coat the new unit with bottom paint before you put it in place. Any chandlery has small spray cans of the stuff. Good luck.
Rod Williams
Azure' #343, 2-cabin fin Alameda/San Francisco Bay, CA. |
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yorkrose |
#3 | |||
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Joe,
There is probably an open end for the Seatalk bus somewhere, but it may not be conveniently located. In any case, you can tap into the Seatalk bus anywhere. The "bus" is only three wires; power, ground, and signal. The signal is sent to all Raymarine units simultaneously, with no serial capture, selective pass-thru, blocking, etc. Each Raymarine unit decodes the signal independently and decides what, if anything, it will do with the signal. The bottom line is that a splice or junction box can be added anywhere. Just connect the red wires (+12 V) together, the yellow wires (signal) together, and the silver and/or black wires (ground) together. The only caution is that one should stay within the total number of units suggested by Raymarine before adding a repeater or a second power feed. The 104 deg F reading (40 C) is a classic failure of the Raymarine temp/speed sensor. I believe replacement is the only option. I had one fail in the warranty period, and it was replaced without charge. However, it may be a simple case of a wiring problem somewhere in the boat. There are most likely one or more wire junctions somewhere between the sensor and the display. Note that these wires are NOT Seatalk. The wires from each sensor to its display head are dedicated to only that function. Regards, Gene Fuller Yorkshire Rose, C42 #870 |
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svwindraven |
#4 | |||
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Here is a test the Raymarine provided to me for false temp readings.
There is a quick test to determine the status of the xducer. Procure a 10K Ohm resistor and two 1MM shovel/spade lugs from a local electronics supplier (Radio Shack, etc) Remove the transducer wires from the back of the ST60 Place a shovel/spade lug on both ends of the 10K ohm resistor On the WHITE and BROWN ports, slide the 10K ohm resistor on Power on the ST60 Your display should give you a reading of 77 degrees F. If the temp reading is still not accurate, then the display is at fault. If the reading is 77 degrees, then the trasducer insert will need to be replaced to correct the problem (fouling doesn't impact the temp reading) |
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Joe |
#5 | |||
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Thanks for the info. Its great to see someone else has had the same problems.
Since I have no speed or temp readings does this indicate its more likely to be the head unit or the wiring at fault? It seems unlikely that both the temp and speed thru hulls would fail together. They look like 2 separate thru hull unless I am mistaken. They are both in the forward vberth in my centerline model about 12" apart. Is the speed/temp a combined thru hull and the 2nd unit the sonar depth sounder? I guess I should look up the part numbers. Thanks for you help ... Joe. hull#872 |
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Doug Boyd |
#6 | |||
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YES--the speed/temp functions exist in a single transducer--the one with the paddle-wheel. The other transducer IS in fact for the depth sounder.
Cheers, Doug |
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buddym5586 |
#7 | |||
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A quick note on sea talk. You can splice the sea talk in anywhere (the yellow wire) but according to a Raymarine tech, the sea talk power will not support all
of the units they say it will. Better to have separate power from the panel to each unit, eg E-80, St 60, autopilot, etc. than to use the sea talk bus. It will
cause some real funky things to happen if you don't.
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Doug Boyd |
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I've recently heard exactly the same from Raymarine. MY challenge has been upgrading to ST60 instruments from original ST50s. I've learned that the
original ST50 transducers may be used with the new instruments, but am still chasing a couple of demons left over from the swap.
1--My new Knotmeter only indicates SOG--which I'm assuming it's getting solely from the Seatalk bus. 2--My new Windmeter (with new transducer installed and connected to preexisting wiring down the mast) only indicates Apparent Wind--which I'm assuming means it isn't processing Seatalk-provided GPS data to compute True Windspeed and direction. In both cases, my C80 Chartplotter diplays the same data, and doesn't add missing components. I'm going to go over the installations again in detail to seek crossed transducer wires (the color codes changed over the years too, adding a hellish added dimension), then individually provide external 12VDC to each instrument in case the C80 is gobbling so much power that it doesn't provide the other instrument's enough. I'd love a second or third opinion on my process and any other advice or voodoo others might offer? Cheers, Doug |
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yorkrose |
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Doug,
I believe that the true wind is calculated from the speed through the water, not from the SOG. If there is no boat speed available on the Seatalk bus, then the windmeter will not try to substitute the SOG. It is a pretty old and simple design. The C80 is a *provider* of power to the Seatalk bus. It will not gobble power from Seatalk. You can add more 12 V taps into the Seatalk bus anywhere you want, but most of the standard instruments will work fine until you start adding multiple displays and extra instruments. As a general rule, any unit on the bus that already has a separate power feed, such as the C80 or an autopilot, will support the Seatalk bus voltage, not gobble it. Regards, Gene Fuller Yorkshire Rose, C42 #870
Last Edited By: yorkrose 07/10/07 14:00:31.
Edited 2 times.
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Doug Boyd |
#10 | |||
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Hey THANKS Gene--that is a very useful lead. Makes sense too, as it points to my knotmeter transducer being the culprit for both of my remaining problems.
Now I'm encouraged to do the transducer checks shared earlier in the thread with a renewed sense of logic.
As for the C80 power/seatalk bit-I appreciate that too. As you've described it, it actually aligns with the Raymarine tech's treatment on the subject--I didn't quote him very clearly in my last note, and his comment about power sharing was in fact related to a potential solution to my autopilot not getting a link (I have to publicly admit THAT problem turned out to be my own negligence in re-connecting the seatalk yellow wire to the autopilot--just for karmic balance) So--I'd confused two issues, and you've clarified them for me and perhaps others. Thanks Sir! Cheers, Doug Hull 418, 2C Pullman, Wing |
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Joe |
#11 | |||
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Hi Larry, I found a free port as you suggested on the AP computer behind the Nav Station electrical panel. I connected my ST600R
http://www.raymarine.com/raymarine/ProductDetail.asp?site=1§ion=2&page=160&product_id=271 remote and have all the info I have at the binnacle (depth/speed/wind etc) at the nav station, plus full control of the auto pilot. Interestingly it shows the same bad speed/temp info as my ST60 on the binnacle. I hope this just points to a bad transducer. Joe. |
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melelana |
#12 | |||
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Joe,
Great! As to the bad speed/temp data. It's not really an indication of a transducer or a head as the head actually puts the data on SeaTalk. The transduer only sends info to the instrument head for processing. Try Raymarine tech support. I called them for assistance after a lightening strike a couple of uears ago and they were able to walk me trhoug some simple troubleshooting steps to see what needed to be sent in for repair and what was not damaged. Rather than send in everything, I was able to just send in the damaged gear and minimize cost. Just took a multimeter and a few minutes.
Larry
Melelana Catalina 42 #175 1990 3cbn, wk Solomons, MD |
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