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 brucegorle |
Cleaning Fresh Water Tanks |
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Posts: 29 02/24/08 10:10:32 |
I got some bad fresh water last summer so I would like to clean the tanks as part of my Spring commissioning this year. Does any one have a sure fire recipe to
flush/clean the tanks?
Thank you Bruce Gorle Lifes Tough #903 2 cab |
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cqr35 |
Flush with bleach solution | #1 | ||
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Posts: 9 02/27/08 12:45:45 |
Each Spring, I flush the antifreeze out with several partial tank fulls of water. Then I add about a cup of bleach into a gallon of water, add to each tank,
and top them off with fresh water. I then let them sit for the month or so between the last freeze and the first sail. Drain, flush once, and refill. Works
for me.
Kevin Harmony #729 |
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peter |
same | #2 | ||
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Posts: 247 02/28/08 13:22:49 |
If you add a cup of white vinegar per tank to the flush water you have the recipe for potable water
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brucegorle |
#3 | |||
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Posts: 29 02/29/08 19:11:40 |
Thank you. I went to a wine making shop and purchased a product they use to clean various implements and carboys and it as presently sitting in the tanks
busily (I hope) sanitizing. I like the idea of using vinegar in the flush water so will try that.
Bruce Gorle Lifes Tough |
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svzephyr44 |
#4 | |||
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Posts: 113 04/08/08 07:14:48 |
I remember that there was a thread somewhere about adding clean out ports to the main starboard and port water tanks. I am considering doing this as part of
the spring commissioning process. My question to whoever did it: Did you lift the flooring and install the ports as flush as possible, then replace the
flooring, or do the ports show over the flooring. The reason for my question is I am not seeing ports that would install flush to the deck, rather they would
have a small (perhaps 1/8 inch) lip.
Roger
REBOOT USA 60493 |
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SteveInMD |
#5 | |||
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Posts: 40 04/10/08 03:55:58 |
From Peggy Hall ("The Head Mistress"), author of "Get Rid of Boat Odors" A guide to Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor. http://shop.sailboatowners.com/detai...=400&group=327 Turn water heater off at the breaker before beginning. Do not turn it on again until entire recommissioning is complete. 1. Prepare a chlorine solution using one gallon of water and 1/2 cup Clorox or Purex household bleach (5% sodium Hypochlorine solution ). With tank empty, pour chlorine solution into tank. Use one gallon of solution for each 5 gallons of tank capacity, which results in 4 Ounces of bleach for 10 gallons of water. 2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Turn on every faucet and allow water to run until what's coming out smells strongly of bleach. 3. Turn off faucets--but do NOT turn off the pump...it must remain on to keep the system pressurized so that the solution remains in the lines. Allow to stand for at least 3 hours, but no longer than 24 hours. 4. Drain the tank through every faucet. 5. Refill tank with clean fresh water and drain again through every faucet. 6. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this solution to agitate in tank for several days by vehicle motion (iow, go sailing and tack a lot). 7. Drain tank again through every faucet, and refill with potable water.
Steve Eller, Hull #446, 3 cabin, Annapolis, MD
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ajchan |
#6 | |||
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Posts: 155 04/14/08 14:49:40 |
The water tanks sit in a well that is molded into the sub floor. The tanks are recessed far enough into the well to permit a piece of 3/4" plywood to
cover the tank and sit flush with the subfloor. The plywood is screwed down at fairly close intervals with #10 oval screws to act as a hold down for the tank.
There is no other physical restraint for the tank, other than the 3/4" piece of plywood. (all of the tanks are held down this way)
I put 6 inch clean out ports in the tops of the tanks which just fit under the plywood, sp there is no need to worry about looking for a flush fitting. Addison
Threepenny Opera
1999 C-42 MK II, 2CP Wing #640 http://the-voyages-of-threepenny-opera.blogspot.com/ |
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svzephyr44 |
Mechanics of Tanks | #7 | ||
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Posts: 113 04/14/08 20:09:40 |
I am going nuts. I thought that when I picked up the floor in the main salon (1995 2 cabin pullman) all I saw was fiberglass. Yes, the pullman bunk tank has a wood plate on top and a cleanout under it. But I am expecting to have to cut thru a fiberglass (not plywood) floor to get to the top of the tanks to the starboard and port of the bilge. Am I just dreaming all of this? If I pick up the floor under the salon table will I find a plywood plate? Help me out here folks>>>>>
Roger
REBOOT USA 60493 |
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ajchan |
#8 | |||
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Posts: 155 04/15/08 03:14:47 |
Picking up the floor under the salon table will require removing the table and the round pedestals that are screwed through to the floor with #14 flat head
slot screws. Once the table is up, the piece of flooring under the salon is actually one of the easier ones to get up, as all you have to do is unscrew the
perimeter. It will lift up with a minimal amount of fuss and you will see the plywood (painted white on TPO) as soon as you lift the floor.
There is no need to cut anything to get to the tanks. All it takes is either a lot of wrist action on a #2 Phillips or an electric screw driver. Addison
Threepenny Opera
1999 C-42 MK II, 2CP Wing #640 http://the-voyages-of-threepenny-opera.blogspot.com/ |
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