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 Izablue2 |
Drying it out |
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Posts: 122 03/19/07 07:39:47 |
I found a small area within the non-skid portion of the swim step that was dicolored. Upon investigation, I found a crack in the gelcoat and the discoloration seems to have been made by water intrustion.
Before I repair the gelcoat, what is the best, and fastest, way to dry out the affected,wet area? Mark Izablue, #835 |
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kenfischer |
Re: Drying it out | #1 | ||
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Posts: 173 03/19/07 19:48:22 Moderator |
I would suggest a light bulb and a clamp-lamp. I had to warm up a plastic part at work with this technique. Not sure what the bulb was...some sort of spot light...probably 150 watts. From 12" away I got my part to 190F in 15 minutes.
With a light bulb, it's very easy to regulate the heat (distance), relatively safe (slow heat), and allows you to bake for a long time without standing there holding a heat gun. I suggest warming it to the point you can still touch it, and then let it sit at temperature for a while....an hour or more. If you can get to the back side with your hand, you want to feel the heat coming through (but if on deck, the fiberglass and wood is too thick). Ken Fischer
2005 C42 #906 "Solaria" 3 Cabin Pullman, Fin Keel, Mast Furling Main, 155% Genoa |
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Izablue2 |
Re: Drying it out | #2 | ||
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Posts: 122 03/20/07 05:57:01 |
Sounds grreat, Ken
thanks Mark |
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yorkrose |
Re: Drying it out | #3 | ||
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Posts: 265 03/20/07 06:53:24 |
Mark,
If there is only a single crack it will take forever and a day to dry out the stained area. The gelcoat is close to impervious, so moderate heat will not drive the water straight out. Migration of the water to the crack location would be very slow, if it occurred at all. On the other hand, applying too much heat could form a blister from the steam, in which case you can strip off more gelcoat, dry the area, recoat, etc. If it is the stain that concerns you, I suspect you are out of luck in any case. The area is unlikely to return to the original color even if it is thoroughly dry. The only thing you are likely to drive out is pure H2O, with any contaminants remaining behind. If it is the trapped moisture that concerns you, I would worry about it only if there is already a blister or other evidence of actual liquid water. Any remaining moisture would simply redistribute within the fiberglass lay-up after the crack is sealed. Since this area is not normally under water there should be no future consequences. Regards, Gene Fuller Yorkshire Rose, C42 #870 |
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Izablue2 |
Re: Drying it out | #4 | ||
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Posts: 122 03/20/07 16:51:41 |
Gene,
I am going to try to dry the area out, but I may be making much too do about nothing. I give it a go, seal the crack and only focus on it only with a glass of wine in my hand... it will always look much better! Thanks for taking the time to respond Mark |
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