Mark
Izablue #835/3
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Izablue2 |
cleaning the fuel bowl |
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I looked on the thread and could not find it....I have alot of junk in my sediment bowl (rancor fuel filter) What is the best, and easiest way to clean the
bowel?
Mark Izablue #835/3 |
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peter |
same | #1 | ||
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Turn off the fuel cock , use a catch bowl to collect the diesel under the filter, unscrew the filter with bowl attached. Pour old fuel into container.
Disassemble. Clean bowl with rag. Place bowl on new filter. Fill filter with clean fuel and screw in place. Open fuel cock. Go back to filter and crack open
until fuel trickles into catch container. Tighten filter and clean up fuel spillage. Start diesel and check for leaks. You are done for 150/200 hours or six
months, whichever comes first. If you notice dirt in bowel in between changes, use a catch bowel, crack screw on the bottom of racor, crack open for a few
seconds and close. If you keep getting debris on a regular basis, polish the fuel. If it persists, drain tank clean, refuel. I think I have touched all the
bases.
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Izablue2 |
#2 | |||
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Peter,
Thanks. Will do Mark |
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CaptNorm42 |
Sounds like you're talking about different filters | #3 | ||
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I see Mark is hull 835, I would expect it to be a Racor 500FG. I don't know Peter's hull #, but the description sounds like it's not a 500FG. I
don't remember the model # for the hulls prior to 502 or so, but that has a different filter.
For 500FG the process is unfortunately more difficult. The beginning steps are the same, but you don't unscrew the filter with bowl attached. Once the bowl is drained, take off the T handle, more fuel will probably come out. You need a 1/4" socket wrench & remove 4 screws around the bowl housing. I will admit, I had a tough time taking them out, I couldn't see the screws, especially the rear ones. There is very-very little of the screw sticking out. The wrench must be exactly square to the screw head. Once all 4 screws are removed, the bowl will drop. Clean it as best you can. You will see there is a gasket that looks just like the gasket for the upper filter. It is NOT the same. The 1st time I did it, I didn't the condition of the gasket (had paint all over it) so called Racor. No stores/repair shops local to Marina del Rey had a gasket. Called Racor back & they sent me a few. Putting the bowl & these 4 screws back on were also challenging. I kept alternating different screws to tighten so the bowl sit on the housing squarely. This is also a great time to replace the element & it's gasket on the top. You will save a lot of time and agravation if you fill the Racor (and secondary) filter with clean diesel. There is lots of controversy on which micron filter to put in, I personally feel 10 micron is the best for the Racor as it appears the secondary (Yanmar filter on the engine) filter is 2 micron. This is also an excellent time to replace the secondary filter. Be sure to open the fuel cock on the diesel tank. Be sure to acquaint yourself with the manual lift pump on the engine, more than likely the engine will stall and you will need to re-prime the fuel. If you filled both filters with clean fuel, 3-4 minutes of priming should be sufficient.
~~~~_/)~~~~
Norm Perron, Hull #600/2 cabin, Aphrodisiac, Marina del Rey, CA |
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peter |
#4 | |||
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oops ... I am 466 so I guess there is a differrent procedure.
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Izablue2 |
#5 | |||
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Norm,
Thanks very much for the info. I had a feeling that it looked like it was going to be a bit of a challange. I will go ahead and contact Racor regarding the bottom gaskets and try to pre-plan my attack on the filter as best I can. Would it help to remove the filter from the bulkhead so as to get a better shot at the rear screws? It's just two bolts and the whole filter assembly would come loose. Any thoughts on that? And Peter, thanks for taking the time to respond. Mark |
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CaptNorm42 |
#6 | |||
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Taking the filter off the bulkhead is a viable option. I left it on the bulkhead. If you take it off, be sure you can rest it on something as I would not want
to put too much weight on the diesel hoses. Only 1 bottom gasket, top gasket comes with the new filter. You may get lucky and be able to see the screws like
Steve,
http://images.yuku.com/image/jpeg/34615477d718c9cba4a4b5751d085b8adff0e9b.jpg
~~~~_/)~~~~
Norm Perron, Hull #600/2 cabin, Aphrodisiac, Marina del Rey, CA |
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ajchan |
#7 | |||
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Removing the assembly is a much easier option because even after the bolts in the back are removed, it takes a bit of effort to remove the bowl from the body
of the housing. I acquired hull 640 which was a 1999, and with only 58 hours on the engine in March of 2006, I'm pretty sure the fuel didn't get a
whole lot of circulation. The upshot was a filter bowl that looked opaque.
Eventually I did get it cleaned out but I was completely turned off by the mess. A little bit of diesel fuel goes a very long way, and it took a bit of scrubbing and flushing to rid the engine compartment of the odor. I bought and installed a Filter Boss from KTI systems. Changing filters is now a breeze, and while I've not had to dismantle the bowls, the whole unit is 100% more accessible. I highly recommend this device, despite the $1400 price tag. Addison
Threepenny Opera
1999 C-42 MK II, 2CP Wing #640 http://the-voyages-of-threepenny-opera.blogspot.com/ |
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yorkrose |
#8 | |||
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Mark,
I recently cleaned the filter bowl on #870, which is probably the same as the filter on #835. I removed the entire filter assembly from the boat. Everything else was very straightforward and easy with the filter on a work table. The gasket was in fine shape, with no paint or other problems. You may or may not need a new gasket. Actually, the first thing to do is to simply drain the filter bowl in the obvious manner. Perhaps even twice. That may remove most of the crud. If not, then go ahead and disassemble. The primary purpose of that bowl is for water separation, not sediment. The sediment would still need to get through two filter elements before reaching the engine fuel pump. The filter clogging stuff is quite small and would be hard to see. It also would not settle into the bowl very readily. A little visible junk in the bowl won't really hurt anything until the bowl is really nasty. However, most of us cannot stand to look at it that long. Regards, Gene Fuller Yorkshire Rose, C42 #870 |
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nickwigen |
Fuel Filters in Engine Space | #9 | ||
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I have a similar setup that Norm shows in his photo. My filters are the 200 series instead of the 500's Norm has since we already had the original 200 on
the boat. A member of our club had an insurance survey done and had problems with the plastic filter bowls in the engine room. The word was that ABYC
requires metal bowls if they are in the engine room. I guess they are worried about the bowls melting in the event of a fire. Anyone else come across this?
My plan is to leave them where they are until somebody makes me move them.
Nick Wigen
Ursa Minor #178 FK, 3-Cabin Portland, Oregon |
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Izablue2 |
#10 | |||
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Gene,
Removing the entire assembply was my first thought. I believe that the fuel lines have compression fittings. My concern was getting a tight seal upon reinstallation. It appears from your experience that does not seem to be a problem. I think I'll trying removing the entire assembly. I'll report back to you all about how well (or how bad) the process was. Again, thanks to everyone for giving me their thoughts Mark |
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