Steve Ball
Hull 559
Holland Michigan
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sjball |
Chain Anchor Rode vs Line |
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I currently have a 35# CQR anchor with 45 ft of 5/16 inch chain and 200 ft of 3/4 inch nylon line. I have not had problems dragging, but am considering adding another 55 ft of chain. I am concerned about the added weight in the bow. I would appreciate any comments about your experience with chain. What amount of scope do you normally use? What type of chain is recommended? I have looked at West Marine Prolink which is supposedly 1# per ft. I have also considered going to a 45# anchor, but not sure that will add as much benefit as more chain. Thanks for any comments.
Steve Ball Hull 559 Holland Michigan |
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nickwigen |
We have 150 ft of 5/16" Chain | #1 | ||
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plus 150 ft of 3/4" nylon with a 20 kg (44 lb) Claw. It did drop the bow about 1-2" but we haven't seen any problems. The scope depends on conditions. The claw needs about 3:1 to set in good conditions so our practical minimum is 4:1. If the bottom is iffy 6:1 is minimum.
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melelana |
Re: We have 150 ft of 5/16" Chain | #2 | ||
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Depends a lot on what conditions you're expecting, the bottom composition and depth of your anchorage. Anchor size make a bigger difference than length of chain. I would suggest you'll get a better improvement by going up in anchor size (35# CQR is a little light for our boats).
What leads you to think about adding chain? Unless you're looking at a chafe problem (coral heads and the like), 50-75 feet of chain is probably adequate. I would think the benefits get pretty low beyond that. Larry Melelana Catalina 42# 175 1990 3cbn, wk Solomons, MD |
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bob776 |
Re: We have 150 ft of 5/16" Chain | #3 | ||
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Our primary is 200 feet of chain with a 20 kilo claw. It's kind of a pain setting up the rope bridle, but the security is worth it. There is a secondary advantage to chain when anchoring in little or no air conditions. When the tide changes you don't have to worring about the anchor line wrapping around the keel. Also, when anchoring on a poor holding bottom, the weight of the chain adds to the holding power. If you do go to all chain you should use a rope bridle (snubber). Initially we used a single and ran it through the anchor roller, but in windy conditions the stretching of the rope made an awful sound that could only be heard in the forward berth. We changed to a double and have no problems with the sound made by the rope stritching.
Bob 776 |
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destinysfo |
300' 5/16 High Tensile Chain | #4 | ||
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Steve,
I would not worry too much about the added weight of additional chain. We have 300' of 5/16 high tensile chain in the locker and the boat handles it just fine. Our primary anchor is a 44 lb Bruce. In San Francisco Bay we don't generally anchor in anything much over 25' on a gooey mud bottom so the amount of chain is probably a bit over the top for this location, but we will be cruising to other areas next year. We do have tidal current here but with all chain there are not any worries about wrapping the rode around the keel when the tide changes every 6 hours. We use a double rope bridle which hooks onto the chain just above the water level. The overall set up seems quite satisfactory. John Foy "Destiny" #329 2 cabin fin Alameda, CA |
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gary |
Re: Chain Anchor Rode vs Line | #5 | ||
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We use 100' 5/16 chain with 150 of plait added on to it. Never had to go beyond the chain in our area only anchor in 10 ft of water most times. Using a CQR35 100' 5/16th spliced to 150 plait braid also with a claw hook single line, haven't had any problems yet in sand and mud
Gary
~~_/)~~ 947 2006MKII N.J. |
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afterglow |
Anchor Chain & Rode | #6 | ||
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We use 100' of 5/16 HT chain (check a small sample of the chain on your windlass to make sure it fits) and 200' of the "new" soft-braided rope as our primary anchor rode. The soft-braid does not make hockles (?) when it twists and it flakes compactly in the anchor locker. It is really pliable and easy on the hands.
I try to anchor in at least 25' of water so that we have some rope, not chain, passing over the bow roller at 5:1. We had a problem on our first cruise where we anchored in less than 20' of water at 5:1 scope, leaving no rope to absorb the shock loads exerted on the chain when the wind came up. To make a long story short, the nyloc nut holding the rubber bow roller in place broke, causing the roller bolt to fail and the roller to jam in the roller support. It could have been worse. I don't have any experience using a snubber line. It would bypass the bow roller, but I'm not sure how strong the bow cleats are -- I guess the real question is, what's the weak link in the anchoring system? Is it the bow roller? Or, is it the bow cleats? I guess the best thing might be to use a snubber to absorb the shock loads, but then loop the anchor line around the sturdy cleat in the anchor locker just in case the bow cleats let go. |
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melelana |
Anchoring | #7 | ||
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The weak link is the roller. A single or prefferably double) snubber is a must to absorb shock loads.
Larry Melelana Catalina 42 #175 1990 3cbn, wk |
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svzephyr44 |
#8 | |||
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Reboot is a 1995. Exactly what specification 5/16" chain do I need for my rode?
Roger
REBOOT USA 60493 |
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royalserf |
#9 | |||
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I used 40 feet of 5/16" HT chain and 150' of nylon rode with a 44 pound Bruce in the Abacos this past winter. I also used the KIWI Anchor Rider which
gave incredible anchor performance. With that said, I am going to increase to 100' chain and 100' rope for the chafe issues in heavy weather. Again, I
will use the KIWI Anchor Rider to give the extra safety margin and also allow me to swing on shorter scope than without the Anchor Rider in congested anchorage
situations.
Fred Drummond Royal Serf #855 2 Cabin C/L |
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dbnonsense |
#10 | |||
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On Common Sense we use 140 ft 5/16 acco with 150 ft 5/8 nylon with a 44lb Delta, we use a double bridle , that takes the strain off the windlass, cancils out
the chain rattle and reduces the amount of swinging that our boats are prone to do also have another 33lb HT Danforth with 60 ft of chain and 150 ft of rode.
we like to sleep at night.
Dave Zeuli Common Sense # 810 |
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